MENS WEAR

Most people make a muslin, which is a sample garment, to test for fit.  (Sometimes a garment requires multiple Mullins.)  I have chosen to approach my shirt muslin with the same attention to detail (or nearly) as I would my final shirt so we can learn from it together.

Especially for those who have never made a shirt before, this is an opportunity to try out techniques that are new to you.  It is also your chance to get to know your pattern inside and out.  The muslin doesn't have to be perfect of course, but I recommend taking time with it.  Any time invested in the early stages is time saved in the later .

shirts are generally ordered according to collar size and sleeve length. However, slimmer fits of shirt are making their way onto the market. Fashion shirts will be available in the cut of the moment, and sold in high street shops up and down the country. However, traditional shirt retailers such as Hawes & Curtis or Thomas Pink will manufacture classic shapes whilst offering the occasional semi-fitted shirt which gives a man a slimmer silhouette.

The range of collars can be split into two; those a manwould wear to work, and those he should not. For example, I don’t approve of button-down collars in the office. They are casual, originally meant for polo players whose collars were always flapping in the wind when galloping around. They belong in the latter group. Soft collars and extremely large collars also belong here. My favourite type of collar is the cutaway, which belongs in the former group. Much favoured by Ralph Lauren in his Black and Purple Label collections, cutaways are one of the most elegant collars and when manufactured well, can be flattering and stylish. Do not listen to the fashionistas who claim the cutaway is dead; real style never dies. However, if fashion is for you, then smaller collars are the dernier cris.

Fashion is dictating the latter at the moment; however the best shirts are always made with double-cuffs. I prefer double cuffs simply for the opportunity of wearing cuff-links of silver or coloured silk. Many City men loathe double-cuffs; some see them as the height of claustrophobic formality. However, those not looking to emulate Steve Jobs’ office sartorial style will probably find them irresistible.

Fashion is dictating the latter at the moment; however the best shirts are always made with double-cuffs. I prefer double cuffs simply for the opportunity of wearing cuff-links of silver or coloured silk. Many City men loathe double-cuffs; some see them as the height of claustrophobic formality. However, those not looking to emulate Steve Jobs’ office sartorial style will probably find them irresistible.

Above all, where you can, get yourself measured for your collar and sleeve size. You’d be surprised how many shirt buyers have been buying the wrong size for many years.

The range of collars can be split into two; those a mans wear to work, and those he should not. For example, I don’t approve of button-down collars in the office. They are casual, originally meant for polo players whose collars were always flapping in the wind when galloping around. They belong in the latter group. Soft collars and extremely large collars also belong here. My favourite type of collar is the cutaway, which belongs in the former group. Much favoured by Ralph Lauren in his Black and Purple Label collections, cutaways are one of the most elegant collars and when manufactured well, can be flattering and stylish. Do not listen to the fashionistas who claim the cutaway is dead; real style never dies. However, if fashion is for you, then smaller collars are the dernier cris.

Fashion is dictating the latter at the moment; however the best shirts are always made with double-cuffs. I prefer double cuffs simply for the opportunity of wearing cuff-links of silver or coloured silk. Many City men loathe double-cuffs; some see them as the height of claustrophobic formality. However, those not looking to emulate Steve Jobs’ office sartorial style will probably find them irresistible.

The range of collars can be split into two; those a mans wear to work, and those he should not. For example, I don’t approve of button-down collars in the office. They are casual, originally meant for polo players whose collars were always flapping in the wind when galloping around. They belong in the latter group. 

Especially for those who have never made a shirt before, this is an opportunity to try out techniques that are new to you.  It is also your chance to get to know your pattern inside and out.